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Wednesday, Jun 20, 2018
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From the food editor: Homemade biscuits make the meal

Raise your hand if you have leftover Easter ham in your freezer.

Yeah, me too.

It’s not every day I pick up a large cured ham at the supermarket, so when holidays come around that call for the pork centerpiece, I always try to think of at least three other ways to use it after the big feast.

Working it into a quiche is ideal. Salty, meaty, with plenty of savory flavor, ham pairs very well with baked eggs and a sharp cheese like cheddar or Parmesan. Or crank up the AC and try some soup: Crisp up some ham in a large pot, then add onions, garlic, some diced potatoes and other veggies like carrots. Some chicken broth, plenty of salt and pepper, a dollop of heavy cream at the end and you’re on your way.

But I am currently infatuated with the dish below as a prime way for transporting ham leftovers directly to my mouth. This recipe works with deli ham, too, which means you can eat it even without the work of a holiday meal behind you.

The secret is homemade biscuits. That’s all you’re actually cooking here, the rest an assemblage of sandwich ingredients that remain simple to allow the biscuits to shine.

And boy are they worthy of the spotlight. These biscuits are very good. A straightforward mixture of butter, flour, milk and some baking powder and soda so they puff up in the oven, the base for the dough is as simple as it gets.

In go cheddar cheese and fresh dill to up the ante, and after about 15 minutes of oven time you’re done: hot, light biscuits that double in size and even create that perfect split down the middle so they are able to be easily separated.

That’s when you get to work layering on the goodies: thinly sliced ham, fresh arugula for crunch and a peppery zing, and an apricot mustard made with sweet jelly and some sliced scallions. Biscuits are for sure the best homemade sandwich vessel.

I would advise making a double batch, one for your next weeknight dinner and the other for a picnic basket. They are screaming to be served on a cozy blanket along with some other spring nibbles like fresh hummus, a bright fruit salad and a bottle of your favorite rose.

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