'Sopranos' Notables Discuss Food

By JEFF HOUCK The Tampa Tribune

Published: Jun 6, 2007

Joseph Gannascoli, who played Vito Spatafore on "The Sopranos," was a chef long before his acting career started with his appearance in the mob movie "Goodfellas" in 1990. He's also the author of the 2006 mob murder-mystery cookbook "A Meal to Die For" (Forge Books, $22.95).

What he has been doing since the show: Promoting his new line of Gannascoli cigars by Rocky Patel.

Most accurate food depiction: "The time when Richie Aprile brought Carmella tripe. You don't see that. They don't serve it that much anymore. That was good. There also was a scene with Pasta Bedan, which is pasta with potatoes. That's like an old-time dish that brings back memories. My grandma used to make it.."

What he would serve as Tony Soprano's last meal: "What I would like to have is linguine with clam sauce because it's my favorite dish. There's nothing finer than clam sauce. I make it myself; if I eat it in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, I'll have crab sauce. It's just tomato sauce with some white wine in it and body of crab and some crabmeat in it, and it's delicious.

Allen Rucker, author of "The Sopranos Cookbook" and "Entertaining With The Sopranos." His latest book is "The Best Seat in the House: How I Woke Up One Tuesday and Was Paralyzed for Life." (HarperCollins, $24.95).

What he would serve at Tony Soprano's last meal: "First, in honor of Livia, baked ziti. It's the only dish she could ever make. Remember that she set the kitchen on fire while sauteing mushrooms. That precipitated her being put into an assisted living facility. She was a terrible person and a terrible cook.

"There was also the Pineapple Ricotta Pie that Carmella took to the lawyer in New York to get her daughter into college."

Why food is so important to Italians: "Food is central to the lives of the people in the show. Food is in the language; it's their connection to the old country and gives credence to what they do, including the violence. The Sunday gravy connects them to the past. All food is comfort food to Italians. They eat pasta four times, three meals and then cold pasta for breakfast. They eat a lot and talk a lot. It's also central to the life of 'The Sopranos.' Can you imagine doing a cookbook for any other television show? I can't imagine a 'Friends' cookbook."

Diana Burton, property master for "The Sopranos" from 2002-07

What does her job entail? Everything you see people eating or handling in a shot is what I deal with. If it's just on a table, that's set dressing. If they pick it up, it's a prop.

What kind of food she made for the crew: "You name it, we made it. We had a kitchen next to the set when we were filming interiors at Silvercup Studios on Long Island. Some prop masters will only make food for people in the foreground, but we wanted to give a sense of realism, so we cooked for everyone on the set.."

What food she would serve at Tony Soprano's last meal: "Baked ziti. They ate a ton of that on the set. Or maybe some of Tony's Neapolitan ice cream."

RICOTTA-PINEAPPLE PIE

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup fine graham cracker crumbs

1/2 cup sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 15-ounce container ricotta cheese

2 large eggs

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the topping:

1 20-ounce can crushed pineapple in syrup

1/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread butter over bottom and sides of a 9-inche pie pan or springform pan. Add the crumbs, turning the pan to coat the bottom and sides. In a large bowl, stir together the sugar and cornstarch. Add the ricotta, eggs cream, lemon zest and vanilla and beat until smooth. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the pie is set around the edges but the center is still slightly soft. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack.

To make the topping: Drain the pineapple well, reserving 1/2 cup of the liquid. In a medium sauce pan, stir together the sugar and cornstarch. Stir in the 1/2 cup pineapple juice and the lemon juice. Cook, stirring, until thickened, about 1 minute. Add the pineapple. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Spread the pineapple mixture over the pie. Cover and chill for a least 1 hour before serving.

Source: "The Soprano's Family Cookbook"

UNCLE JUNIOR'S SUNDAY GRAVY

For the sauce:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound meaty pork neck bones or spareribs

1 pound veal stew meat or 2 veal shoulder chops

1 pound Italian-style plain or fennel pork sausages

4 garlic cloves

1/4 cup tomato paste

3 28- to 35-ounce cans Italian peeled tomatoes

2 cups water

Salt and freshly ground pepper

6 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces

For the meatballs:

1 pound ground beef or a combination of beef and pork

1/2 cup plain bread crumbs, preferably homemade

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic

1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

To serve:

1 pound shells or rigatoni, cooked and still hot

Freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

To make the sauce: Heat the oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Pat the pork dry and put the pieces in the pot. Cook, turning occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until nicely browned on all sides. Transfer the pork to a plate. Brown the veal in the same way, and add it to the plate. Place the sausages in the pot, and brown on all sides. Set the sausages aside with the pork.

Drain off most of the fat from the pot. Add the garlic, and cook for about two minutes or until golden. Remove and discard the garlic. Stir in the tomato paste, and cook for 1 minute. With a food mill, puree the tomatoes, with their juice, into the pot. Or, for a chunkier sauce, just chop up the tomatoes and add them. Add the water and salt and pepper to taste. Add the pork, veal, sausages and basil, and bring the sauce to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little more water.

To make the meatballs: Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a large bowl. Mix together thoroughly. Rinse your hands with cool water, and lightly shape the mixture into 2-inch balls. (Note: If you are making meatballs for lasagna or baked ziti, shape the meat into tiny balls the size of a small grape.)

Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet. Add the meatballs and brown them well on all sides. (They will finish cooking later.) Transfer the meatballs to a plate. After the sauce has cooked for two hours, add the meatballs and cook for 30 minutes more or until the sauce is thick and the meats are very tender.

To serve: Remove the meats from the sauce and set aside. Toss the cooked pasta with the sauce. Sprinkle with cheese. Serve the meats as a second course, or reserve them for another day.

Makes about 8 cups of sauce.

Source: "Entertaining With The Sopranos"