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FEEDER'S DIGEST

Published: Nov 2, 2007

ITALIAN

ALFANO'S, 1702 Clearwater-Largo Road, Clearwater; (727) 584-2125. Owned and operated by the the Alfano family since 1984, this restaurant offers a bit of European flair along the bustle of Clearwater-Largo Road. Dining rooms are quiet and posh - modeled after the grand hotel lobbies of Italy - and servers work each table with crisp efficiency. Pasta dishes are a must, such as a simple but rich rigatoni with meat sauce or the popular Rigatoni alla Vodka, bathed in a heavy cream sauce with prosciutto, mushroom and hot red pepper. Adventurous diners should consider the Celeste Abacchio, an imported rack of lamb cut and grilled in the Roman style of robust herbal flavors. ($$-$$$)

ANTONIO'S PASTA GRILLE, 11401 N. 56th St., Suite 23, Temple Terrace, (813) 914-8899 (check the telephone book for other locations). This is a friendly place that falls between casual and upscale. Try the delightful pasta primavera, a beautiful display of steamed vegetables with a creamy lemon herb sauce; or Tortellini Con Prosciutto, with mushrooms, peas and ham smothered in a Parmesan cheese sauce. The menu also features steaks, lamb, veal and pizza. Portions are huge. ($)

ARMANI'S, Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay, 2900 Bayport Drive, Tampa; (813) 207-6800. One of the finest restaurants on Florida's west coast. Overlooking Old Tampa Bay and Tampa International Airport, Armani's offers twin views of sunset and takeoff, plus crack professional waiters and fancy linens. Along with delectable pastas and veal, Armani's is a reliable source for fresh seafood. Service is stellar and the food isn't far behind. It's easy to go broke here, but not necessary. ($$$)

BASTA'S RISTORANTE, 1625 Fourth St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-7880. Long a favorite quiet dining spot, the food and service are by no means understated at this fine restaurant. The large menu ranges from dressed-up pastas, most prepared Northern style, to an array of filets and steaks, sauteed in flavorful sauces. Lots of tableside flambe dishes as well. ($$$)

BELLA'S ITALIAN CAFE, 1413 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 254-3355. If location is everything, Bella's has it made. This venerable Hyde Park restaurant features a classy but comfortable ambience and an affordable menu of Italian dishes made from scratch. Whether you're devouring one of the bargain pizzas or the Confetti Spaghetti, eating here is fun, and families line up to get in on weekends. Desserts are essential, and the kitchen welcomes late-night diners seven days a week while locals pour into the bar and lounge. ($$)

BELLINI, 487 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5449. Owners Ciro and Clarita Mancini hail from Naples, Italy, and insist on importing many of their ingredients. Pastas taste fresh and absorb their opulent tomato and cream sauces; velvety cheeses enhance whatever they touch; the kitchen excels at a creative blend of spices, herbs and exquisite olive oils; and entrees are artfully framed on warm plates. A must is the Pappardelle Martina, the wide pasta marrying sauteed shrimp in a coconut saffron sauce with arugula and, when available, fresh strawberries. We also enjoyed a luscious Ravioli d'Aragosta, the pasta squares stuffed with Maine lobster meat and served with shrimp, scallops and chives swimming in a red cream sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAFE CIBO, 8697 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 579-1570. The owners of this comfortable eatery do Italian food right, from the antipasti to the dolci. For entrees, you'll find a wide variety of reasonably priced Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients. Pasta selections include penne with portobello mushrooms, gnocchi with ricotta and chicken-stuffed ravioli. The shrimp scampi comes in a big bowl of al dente linguine swirled with white wine, lemon butter and garlic. A standout entree is Veal Sorrentino, a lightly breaded fillet of veal (or chicken, if you prefer) topped with eggplant that's sealed with marinara and melted mozzarella. Finish it all off with a fluffy piece of tiramisu. ($)

CAFFE AMARETTO, 5915 Memorial Highway, Tampa; (813) 885-4700. When it first opened in the early '90s, this affordable but elegant Italian restaurant boasted a kitchen of magicians, and fortunately little has changed. Rich sauces, judicious use of herbs and creative techniques keep the locals coming back. A seafood favorite is the Cernia Livornese, a fresh filet of grouper with black olives, onions, capers and tomato sauce. ($$)

CAFFE PARADISO, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-6622. Tucked into St. Croix Plaza on south MacDill Avenue, Caffe Paradiso thrives off local appetites and is happy to customize the diner's order. Owner Paolo Tini offers an excellent minestrone soup and salads, a rich-tasting Ossobuco alla Milanese and Pasticcio di Lasagna. Consider the fish specials. ($$-$$$)

CASA LUDOVICO, 1710 Alternate U.S. 19, Palm Harbor; (727) 784-7779. Carmine Cervelli hails from Naples, Italy, and honors family traditions. He has no need for nouvelle or contemporary cuisines when original recipes will do. He brings this philosophy to Casa Ludovico, one of the Bay area's culinary gems. Entrees are cooked to order by a veteran kitchen staff, arranged on the plate with simple elegance and presented by a team of efficient, professional servers. Consider the seafood-rich Linguini alla Pescatore de St. Angelo; the spicy Penne alla Norcini; fresh grouper and salmon; or the hearty Medaglioni di Manzo, a trio of petite filet mignon sauteed in cherry tomato sauce with a hint of oregano and garlic. ($$-$$$)

CICCIO & TONY'S, 1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8406. Sporting a hip, young look, outdoor seating, wine bar and creative Tuscan menu, C&T's quickly fit the mold along Howard Avenue's restaurant row. Try the risotto cakes, brick oven pizzas, Tonno alla Piemontese, Fusilli Mare Verde and Pollo Ricotta. Affordable, enjoyable Italian food wrapped in a colorful atmosphere. ($$)

DELIZIE ITALIAN BAKERY & DELI, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 837-8822. Franco Barlettai and Francesca Caramello run a quaint Italian bakery and deli privy to neighborhood locals. Tucked into the St. Croix Plaza, Delizie gives a false impression because the simple, unadorned dining room doesn't match the creativity of its kitchen. A much-recommended pasta entree is the Baked Ziti and Meatballs, a generous portion of penne pasta mixed with a hearty sauce made from whole peeled tomatoes. Consider the Chicken Paillard with rosemary; Pollo alla Lisa; Shrimp Saute; and Grilled Mahi Mahi in a Livornese sauce. ($$)

DONATELLO, 232 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 875-6660. Donatello is synonymous with class. When the maitre d' snaps his fingers, napkins fly, water glasses fill and menus unfold. Mechanics between kitchen and table are as smooth as the sauces that grace the pastas. Entrees include a splendid veal chop sauteed in brandy, mushroom and creme sauce. The avocado appetizer delights with its accompaniment of tender, fresh, butterflied shrimp and cream sauce. ($$$)

GIORDANO'S, 11310 Causeway Blvd., Brandon; (813) 655-2828 (check the telephone book for other locations). Chicago-based chain offers a family-friendly atmosphere and a dependable menu of no-frills Italian favorites served in portions that would keep William "Refrigerator" Perry happy. The restaurant's signature item is its stuffed, double-crusted, deep-dish pizza. We recommend the Special - a mouthwatering bounty of sausage, mushrooms, green pepper and onions - but the Super Vegi, Shrimp and Spinach pies are tough to overlook. Consider the outdoor seating if the weather's nice. ($-$$)

GOURMET PIZZA COMPANY, 610 S. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1999. This 25-seat cafe specializes in unusual pizza pies. Among the regional varieties: A Thai Chicken Pizza that has no red sauce but is drizzled with a spicy peanut sauce along with chicken, peppers and cabbage. Southwestern Pizza combines cheeses and chicken on a pastry made of black beans and corn. And there's Cajun Crawfish Pizza, which features spicy sausage and whole crawfish tails atop Cajun hot sauce. Customers can come up with their own creations by choosing from a list of vegetables, meats, sauces and cheeses. If you don't dig pizza, try the calzolli, which is similar to a calzone but flatter. Lasagna comes in meat and vegetable varieties. ($)

IL TERRAZZO, 700 S. Florida Ave. (inside the Tampa Marriott Waterside), downtown Tampa; (813) 204-6343. Enjoy a relaxing meal at this fine dining restaurant overlooking Garrison Channel. Northern Italian favorites include grilled chicken paillard, gnocchi with roasted red pepper sauce, fettuccine with asparagus and shrimp, and stuffed veal chops. ($$)

LA TRATTORIA DA GAETANO, 2152 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5664. Gaetano Palmieri runs the show here, taking orders from memory without a printed menu, and cooking everything to order. He brings out a showcase of entrees: filet mignon, New York strip, grouper, snapper, salmon, veal, lamb, shellfish, lobster, rabbit, chicken and stuffed eggplant. Patrons choose their entree, sauce and style of preparation. A wonderful taste sensation for most any dish, particularly stuffed pasta shells, is the sweet pink sauce made with cream and amaretto. Expect a long and rewarding dinner. ($$-$$$)

THE LAUGHING CAT RESTAURANT, 1820 N. 15th St., Tampa; (813) 241-2998. The ambitious menu at this Ybor City restaurant features more than 125 items. You'll find two pages of pasta, 10 veal dishes and 10 chicken dinners. Sherry and cognac add a wonderful punch to risotto, along with baked oysters and plump shrimp. Another highlight is Involtini di Pollo Al Marsala, a moist chicken breast stuffed with fontina cheese and prosciutto in a Marsala wine sauce. ($$-$$$)

LAURO RISTORANTE, 3915 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 281-2100. Locals who love authentic Italian have worn a path through the door of Lauro Ristorante in south Tampa, where we always leave lingering in garlic and a belt hole larger. Consider the Petto di Pollo Parmigiana, a large double breast densely packed with cheese, breaded and sauteed in butter and spices. Don't pass up the sauteed Dover Sole, a 16-ounce fillet topped with capers and lemon butter and filleted tableside. Pasta dishes are a staple here, filling and framed in lavish cream, tomato or wine sauces. The Penne alla Vodka is tossed with onions and prosciutto, and rich homemade potato dumplings and the sweet flavor of basil spark the Gnocchi Sorrentina. ($$-$$$)

LA TERRAZZA, 1727 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-1326. Luigi is a regular face on Seventh Avenue, greeting anyone who strolls by and enticing them to dine in his attractive little restaurant in the heart of Ybor. Order the Linguine al Pesto - the melding of pine nuts, fresh basil leaves, garlic and olive oil will inundate the senses. Also of note are the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese and Spaghetti allo Scoglio with fresh clams, scallops, shrimp and mussels bathed in white wine. ($$)

MAZZARO'S ITALIAN MARKET, 2909 22nd Ave. N., St. Petersburg, (727) 321-2400. This market is a local treasure, a feast of culinary basics: plump cuts of meat and glistening fish, 300 types of cheese, pickled goodies crammed into jars, hot breads speckled brown in the oven, stuffed pastas, piquant herbs and spices, row upon row of hearty wines and ports, and tins of anchovy and goose liver. The selection of olive oils and balsamic vinegars alone is mind boggling. A family can take out a full pan of cooked food or dine by the slice. Popular selections include sesame-seared tuna, eggplant Parmesan, a hefty and flavorful lasagna, succulent ossobuco, stuffed ravioli, and mini meat loaves stuffed with nuts and raisins. ($)

MELLOW MUSHROOM, 11955 Sheldon Road, Tampa; (813) 926-3600. A chain restaurant with a Deadhead vibe, the Mellow Mushroom made its name with addictive pizza dough - though the extensive beer list doesn't hurt. The salads are good, and the homemade hummus appetizer is worth a try, but be sure to save enough room for the pies. The Magical Mystery Tour, topped with pesto, spinach, portobello and button mushrooms, feta cheese and jalapenos, is a good place to start. The bottom line is you could put anything on these garlic butter and Parmesan-dusted crusts, and it would taste sensational. ($)

MOTT & HESTER DELI, 1155 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 289-9758. Mott & Hester cranks out the best pasta and some of the tastiest sauces in town. This is the deli that runs circles around bigger restaurants at food shows. Named for a street corner in New York's Little Italy, Mott & Hester nonetheless has an uptown attitude. Sandwiches include Big Tony's Special - mortadella, cappicola, salami and provolone covered with lettuce, tomato, red onions and Italian dressing. Don't pass up the fresh pasta takeout case. It's the formula for a fail-safe dinner party. ($$)

NIKO'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 3705 Tampa Road (Forest Lake Plaza), Oldsmar; (813) 814-0907. This small, bright restaurant with friendly service features a menu loaded with Italian and Greek specialties, grinders, and, of course, pizza and seafood. The spinach pizza is a Niko's original, with a perfect combination of spinach, garlic and cheese topping a just-right crust. Daily lunch and dinner specials often feature several pasta dishes and seafood. ($)

PIAZZA ROMA RISTORANTE ITALIANO, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 354-8259. This casual restaurant is a lively spot for gourmet pizza cooked in a mesquite wood-burning oven, and toppings include smoked salmon, truffles, porcini mushrooms and prosciutto. If you're in the mood for pasta, try the Burina (penne nestled with Italian sausage and Romano cheese) or Carbonara (fettuccine bathed with a rich sauce made from eggs, cream, and Romano and Parmesan cheeses). The menu also features risotto, a grilled New York steak, fried chicken, grilled salmon and baked sea bass. ($$)

THE RAVIOLI COMPANY, 3413 S. Manhattan Ave., Tampa; (813) 254-2051. Lauren and Dwight Otis are master pasta makers of the old school, evident in the quality of their fare. It's takeout a la carte, offering both cooked and uncooked meals. The raviolis are exceptional, such as the sweet potato or Gorgonzola cheese and crushed walnuts. Don't pass up a pound of basil-infused or porcini mushroom linguine, which takes just minutes in a pot of boiling water. Also consider the classic lasagna; pesto-crusted leg of lamb; shrimp and andouille sausage; and sea scallops with a curry and lime pappardelle. ($)

RICK'S ITALIAN CAFE, 214 E. Davis Boulevard, Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 253-3310. Rick's serves up good, inexpensive grub with few frills. Try a cup of rich Lentil soup to start, which complements a spicy Antipasto and a dozen addicting Garlic Rolls. Dinners lean toward pasta, such as a tasty Angel Hair with Crab, Baked Ziti, or a tongue-twisting Spaghetti and Sausage. Pasta dishes are down home with no frills, but worthy of a hearty appetite. Lunches are generous and cheap. ($)

RIGATONI TUSCAN OVEN, 3437 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 879-7000. This casual eatery sets a cozy table for those who want a reasonably priced, dependable menu without fussiness. A small dining room overlooks an open kitchen, where on any weekend night an army of cooks toils away making chicken Marsala, gourmet pizza, shrimp scampi and baked and boiled pastas. The heady aromas of garlic, herbs and sauces cling to your clothes with such tenacity that a shirt still smells like Pollo Piccata two days later. ($$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

SPARTACO, 3215 S. MacDill Ave., Suite B (Bayshore Plaza), Tampa; (813) 832-9327. This tiny trattoria occupies an unpretentious spot in the corner of a south Tampa strip center, proving that good things often come in small packages. Start with the calamari salad, featuring tender strands of grilled squid and tomatoes bathed in a vinaigrette dressing. Or try a vegetarian selection, grilled polenta with a plump portobello mushroom. The pasta is a hit, too - extra light Sacchettini Ripieni, petite pasta pouches that hold six kinds of cheese, are topped with a pink sauce of tomatoes and bechamel. And a hearty vegetable lasagna layers fresh garden vegetables and spinach pasta. The specials always shine, and the desserts are delightful. ($-$$)

STEPHANNO'S PIZZERIA AND ITALIAN GRILL, 6607 N. Florida Ave., Tampa; (813) 232-9486. Hand-tossed pizzas, plus pasta dishes and hearty sandwiches, are the order of the day at this Seminole Heights take-out place. The pizza is good and generously topped, but the homemade focaccia sets the hot and cold sandwiches apart. ($)

TIMPANO ITALIAN CHOPHOUSE, 1610 W. Swann Ave. (in Old Hyde Park Village), Tampa; (813) 254-5870. This hip Hyde Park restaurant is a great place for people-watching. Enjoy the show while listening to live music and sipping one of Timpano's signature martinis. Savvy regulars kick-start the appetite with an oyster or Spicy Tuna Shooter from the raw bar. Dinner entrees are simple and straightforward, such as a Kobe Double Bone Pork Chop, Dry Aged Hand Cut Filet and an Organic Grain Fed Veal Chop. Good bets include Seafood Cioppino, spaghetti topped with a lobster broth loaded with fish, shrimp, calamari and mussels; and Grilled Salmon with mustard cream sauce, paired with marinated artichokes and spinach. ($$$)

VILLA GALLACE, 109 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-0200. This eatery is a popular beach destination, with a deck that overlooks the Intracoastal Waterway. The restaurant offers a hearty menu of Italian favorites. Good service keeps the locals coming back for more than a dozen freddi and caldi antipasti, should your tastes run hot and cold, and hefty chicken, pasta and seafood entrees. Try the Fileto Diane, Veal Rollatini or Tortellini Alla Panna. ($$)

VILLAGGIO RISTORANTE, 102 Flagship Drive, Lutz; (813) 949-0572. This family-run restaurant serves pasta, seafood and meat dishes in a romantic, intimate atmosphere. The hearty Braciola, a rolled beef cutlet stuffed with cheese, ham, onions and bread crumbs, is not for the faint of heart. Lighter appetites might consider Linguine Crab Trecolori, plump pieces of crab, tomatoes and broccoli served over pasta. ($$)

VILLA RINA, 10073 Adamo Drive, Tampa; (813) 654-6449. This Italian eatery promotes itself as a New York-style pizza and pasta restaurant, but pizza is the restaurant's mainstay. Besides the usual assortment of toppings, Villa Rina offers specialty pies such as broccoli, veggie and a white pizza. If you want something richer than pizza, try the calzone (ham, ricotta and mozzarella) or stromboli (pepperoni, ham, salami and cheese). For lunch, the menu offers a huge selection of sandwiches. Dinner entrees include spaghetti, eggplant parmigiana, lasagna and chicken Parmesan. ($)

ZERILLO'S ITALIAN GRILL, 11653 Countryway Blvd., Tampa; (813) 855-5178. Whether you're on a date or out with the kids, this comfortable Italian restaurant with the extensive menu has a table for you. The food is solid, the service efficient and the ambience pleasant - like a high-end chain, with a less anonymous feeling. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60